As we made our way to Derry, or Londonderry as the British like to call
the second biggest city in Northern Ireland, a voice on the radio
informed us that a recent poll had put the residents of Derry as the
happiest in Great Britain.
The sun rarely broke out through the dark clouds for the two days that we were there. The time was hardly enough to discover the happiness quotient of the people but the gloomy skies, like they usually do, seemed to kill any illusions of bubbling merriment we were expecting from the place. If anything, they rendered the old town even more intense that it would like to seem.
Once a site of fierce battles between the Irish Republican Army and the British, it is difficult to know whether Derry has fully reconciled with its bloody past. Constant reminders of it are littered along its streets, be it the memorials, museums or boards describing some of the landmark moments. The elaborate, colourful graffiti on its buildings, depicting key figures—from Jesus Christ to Che Guevara-- give an impression that the city lives in rebellion.
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The most fascinating aspect of Derry, are the walls that bound the inner city. Stretching over 1.5 kilometres, a walk on the walls leads you to a fascinating journey through time and offers a spectacular view of the city.
Built in the 17th century, between 1614 and 1619, the walls retain most of their original structure. Given their width—from 12 to 35 feet— and adorned with churches and entrance to cafes, after a while it feels like you are walking down the narrow streets of a European city rather than a wall. Possibly, this sturdiness was the reason that despite lying in siege several times, Derry’s walls were never breached.
Twenty-four canons, which the city claims are the largest collection of canons whose origins are precisely known, and watch towers stand guard even today, looking out at strategic locations from the walls.
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With day-long access at absolutely no cost, Derry’s walls are the city’s biggest tourist attraction, but befitting a town of its size it’s also a regular haunt for the locals. Your are likely to catch them having a cup of coffee or bump into giggling girls in uniforms spending their evening together after school.
As I mentioned before, two days is not enough time to gauge the personality of the city. But rather than fun and frolic Derry radiates an understated, quiet vibe of contentment. And resoluteness, much like its walls.
The sun rarely broke out through the dark clouds for the two days that we were there. The time was hardly enough to discover the happiness quotient of the people but the gloomy skies, like they usually do, seemed to kill any illusions of bubbling merriment we were expecting from the place. If anything, they rendered the old town even more intense that it would like to seem.
Once a site of fierce battles between the Irish Republican Army and the British, it is difficult to know whether Derry has fully reconciled with its bloody past. Constant reminders of it are littered along its streets, be it the memorials, museums or boards describing some of the landmark moments. The elaborate, colourful graffiti on its buildings, depicting key figures—from Jesus Christ to Che Guevara-- give an impression that the city lives in rebellion.
The most fascinating aspect of Derry, are the walls that bound the inner city. Stretching over 1.5 kilometres, a walk on the walls leads you to a fascinating journey through time and offers a spectacular view of the city.
Built in the 17th century, between 1614 and 1619, the walls retain most of their original structure. Given their width—from 12 to 35 feet— and adorned with churches and entrance to cafes, after a while it feels like you are walking down the narrow streets of a European city rather than a wall. Possibly, this sturdiness was the reason that despite lying in siege several times, Derry’s walls were never breached.
Twenty-four canons, which the city claims are the largest collection of canons whose origins are precisely known, and watch towers stand guard even today, looking out at strategic locations from the walls.
With day-long access at absolutely no cost, Derry’s walls are the city’s biggest tourist attraction, but befitting a town of its size it’s also a regular haunt for the locals. Your are likely to catch them having a cup of coffee or bump into giggling girls in uniforms spending their evening together after school.
As I mentioned before, two days is not enough time to gauge the personality of the city. But rather than fun and frolic Derry radiates an understated, quiet vibe of contentment. And resoluteness, much like its walls.
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